The ECR to Pondicherry

The East Coast Road from Madras to Pondicherry is perhaps the most picturesque highway in India. It skirts the sea for the major part, and the sea is a deep green, unlike the murky waters around Bombay. I first went to Pondicherry on a business trip. And it was truly mixing business with pleasure. The client wanted to give us a taste of Pondicherry, so he put us up at the Ashram Guest House. It's part of the Aurobindo Ashram, and isn't really a hotel, but more of a meditation retreat. So it comes with strict house rules. The doors shut at 10 and you better be back in your rooms by that time. There's no TV, no phone, no AC, in the rooms, but the rooms are very comfortable, and the sea crashing on the rocks outside the balcony provides some wonderful music. And oh, the cafe only serves healthy satvik food. Forget the French repast here.

The second night he took us to his beach house on the outskirts of Pondicherry. Built on the sands, mainly with wood, operating on solar power. We had to leave the car we came in at the gate, and hop into a Land Cruiser to traverse the final few hundred metres or so from the gate to the house. Indian SUVs, like the Safari we came in, we were told, can't drive over the sands. It was an idyllic retreat, but I fear the tsunami would have ravaged it completely.

The next morning, he and his wife rustled up a wonderful meal for us, couscous and hummus and whatnot. In return, we created an excellent advertising campaign for him. I hope it brought in customers to his satisfaction.